Top Chef ChicagoEpisode: High Steaks (Or, Oh! The Butchery!)
May 28, 2008
Previously On Top Chef: At the end of the Peloponnesian Restaurant Wars, Stephanie and her wondrous bosom emerged victorious. Dale and Lisa managed to not throw chairs at each other. Spike stayed out of the fracas. And Dale was dispatched.
It's morning in Top Cheflandia and the Blow Drier Brigade is cheery that for the first time in the 37 year history of Top Chef three women are in the final five. Which means that the odds are in their favor for a woman to finally take the prize. (This should compensate nicely for that whole Hillary thing, I figure.)
Quickfire Challenge: The chefs hop into their pornographically promoted sponsored gas guzzlers and head to Allen Brothers, a Chicago purveyor of fine, fresh meat (and the occasional surprise which we'll discover later).
There some woman in a hairnet, who looks nothing like the lovely Padma. She introduces the cheftestants to some dry-age, long-bone ribeye steaks. She also introduces them to some fashion accessories which we're told are required of meat handlers by not only the Food and Drug Administration and its three meat inspectors nationwide but also by the federal government. (It would seem that the Bush Administration privatized the FDA when we weren't looking.) The accessories include hairnets, hats and, for Chef "You're Never Fully Dressed Without A Hat" Spike a special scraggly beard mask.
They don the garb -- plus waist-high body armor which was diverted from Iraq -- and go head onto the killing floor. (OK, it's the butchery room, so sue me.) Spike says he's really excited about this challenge because in addition to his 31 years as a short order cook, his grandfather was a butcher and he spent 16 years as a butcher himself (right before he originated the role of Edna Turnblad in Hairspray).
NotPadma tells the chefs that they will have to take a herd of cattle and whittle it down to seven "tomahawk" steak chops in 20 minutes. And they will have to "be sure that the bone is frenched," which thanks to the Supreme Court, is now legal in Illinois.
Spike's seven decades in meat-choppery have not been spent idly smoking dope (see Bravotv.com for more on that), as he deftly hacks the dry age off the VW-sized hunk of meat and nimbly produces his chops. (However, he did pull beard mask off for this. Someone really should inform the FDA and the government agents.)
Chef "It's A Sunshine Day" Lisa reminds us that with only five chefs left, there is no room for error.
NotPadma calls time and tells the chefs to grab their meat and head out the GE Monogram© Kitchen.
When they arrive there, they are greeted by RealPadma and her astounding bedonkadonk. Oh, yeah, and some dude. His name is Rick Tramonto and he is the King O'Steaks in Chi-town.
Anyways .... Food, yes, we were talking about food. ... (Sorry the bootylicious one was distracting me.) ... The challenge will be to prepare a perfect tomahawk steak for Chef Rick. And he likes his steaks medium rare.
For some reason, this panics the chefs. Chef "Pointy On Top, Pink And Round On The Bottom" Richard tells us that this will not be about the flavor, but about the butchery and the doneness of the meat.
Lisa tells us the secret to cooking this steak will be to spend a lot of time touching it while it cooks, while Spike ("Did I Mention My Years Of Studying Orangutans In The Wild?") knows that it's best to put the steaks in the oven for the last stage of its preparation.
Richard is bummed he won't be able to make "steaks" out of granola and wheat germ instead, but makes do with an actual steak. Meanwhile, Chef "Enough With This Rack; Did You Get A Load Of My Rack Last Week?" Stephanie almost fries Lisa's face with steak splatter.
Everyone insists their steaks need to "rest" after all this work.
Time for judging.
Padma and Rick taste Richard's roasted, charred and torched steak. They approve. Richard finds that "awesome."
Lisa says her pan-fried steak was able to fulfill her girlhood wish of working in a butchery.
Chef "Radar, Up There; Me, Way Down Here" Antonia says her steak is well rested.
Chef Rick issues his verdict: Stephanie's steak was not enough like a lollipop. Richard's, similarly, did not impress.
He loved Lisa's touchy-feely lollipop, Spike's butchery and Antonia's crustiness. But it's Spike with his generations of butchering experience who carries the day. (I also understand he worked on a fishing trawler in the North Sea, plumbing the depths for blue fin tuna in the '60s.)
Spike doesn't get immunity, but does get a leg up in the ...
Elimination Challenge: The chefs will be taking over Chef Rick's beloved Tamonto's Steak & Seafood restaurant the following night. They will be able to either make delicious meals which will enhance the establishment's stellar reputation, or cause it to lose it's Zagat rating with comments like "undercooked steak," "badly seasoned side dishes" and "broccolini."
Each chef will have to create an appetizer and an entrée. And they will have to create their menu from what they find in Rick's kitchen. (Did the sponsor grocery not pony up for this challenge?)
And Spike's "advantage"? He'll get first pick in the kitchen for his proteins for both the appetizer and the entrée.
Lisa says Spike's going to be screwed by this advantage, since he's going to be rushed into making a choice which he can't take back. (There's no way that that's going to happen, right?)
They go back to Casa Cheftestant for more steaks and chatter about Spike's eight decades of butchering experience and his years of decoding German military missives for the Allies in the big war.
They cook steaks, drink Sponsor Water and conveniently discover garbage bags which are emblazoned with a three-foot Glad© logo on the outside. Because when you're out touring your local land fill, you want to be sure everyone knows it's Glad© products holding in those rotting banana peels and coffee grounds.
The next night, they arrive at Tramonto's and marvel at the decor and the kitchen. Spike must think it's such a shame he doesn't have the time to redo it in purple and gold.
Spike is then goosed into his mad dash to pick his proteins. He runs right for the tomahawk steaks. And since he had scallops in mind for his appetizer, he grabs a bag of frozen scallops from the freezer.
Everyone is stunned that Spike chose frozen seafood.
The chefs have three hours to create and pretty much everyone creates on the fly, making dishes they haven't made before. Stephanie opts to make sweetbreads, which she informs us are the thymus glads of veal. She says that while that "sounds really unappetizing, it's like a Chicken McNugget if it's done right."
Clearly, I've never had one that was done right.
Lisa is in love with the restaurant's ricer and uses it to make peanut butter mashed potatoes while Richard takes hamachi tuna and cuts it into bacon-like strips. (So, would that be "bacon," then?)
Next it's Antonia's turn to try to take out Lisa in the kitchen. Her secret plan is to roast her over an open flame. When Lisa protests, Antonia insists her fire "needs air." Besides, doesn't Lisa have her magical flame-retardant bandanna handy?
In another part of the kitchen, Spike is beginning to discover that his scallops are crap. He figures that being a chef means being able to mitigate crap.
Then it's Tom's "freak the chefs out" time. First, he hits Antonia's station. She tells him what she's preparing and says that she would have liked to cook scallops, but after seeing that they were frozen scallops, she wasn't disappointed that Spike took them. Tom makes a face.
After he chats with Stephanie, he heads to Richard's station where he sees Croc Dude's "bacon." But when he learns of the relative simplicity of one of Richard's dishes, he calls it "pretty straightforward for you."
At that, Richard breaks into a cold sweat and his fauxhawk droops with worry.
Then, it's off to quiz Lisa and Her Magical Bandanna. She says she's doing "grilled and chilled" shrimp and a steak with the peanut butter mashed potatoes. Tom makes a face.
Spike's turn. We spend a moment discussing his astounding butchering skills, which were learned at the feet of the trappers in the Appalachian woods during the French and Indian War. Tom mentions that the others were surprised that Spike would pick frozen scallops. Spike says he "doesn't have a problem with frozen scallops." Tom makes a face.
Spike says that if he can make these scallops look good, he "can make anything look good." Like mustard-colored fedoras from the jazz age. And patchy beards.
Tom then reveals that tonight he will also will be playing the part of "friendly guy who expedites service" (in addition to his usual "scary dude who freaks people out while they cook" role).
Antonia says that that's "awesome."
Stephanie says that that's "awesome."
At crunch time, Spike starts to regret that, again, an "advantage" he has been given has "bitten him in the ass." Nowhere does he mention that it is his own decisions about using those advantages that have so munched his posterior.
During the break, Bravo asks us to vote on "who was chopped too soon?" Andrew, Dale or Jennifer. (Surely America sees Andrew for the glorious being of crazysexycoolcookery that he is, right?)
When we come back, Richard reminds us that with five chefs left "there is no room for error."
And that's when Tom reveals tonight's "VIP guests." They are the winners of the three previous seasons of Top Chef, Chef Harold "Keep Your Head Low And Cook" Dieterle, Chef Ilan "Am I A Bigger Douche Now Or Was I Always This Way?" Hall and Chef Hung "Say It With Me, 'My Monkey Could Do That'" Huynh.
Asked to give this year's chefs advice, Harold tells them to make good food. Hung tells them to try hard and not just try to win "fan favorite." Ilan says to not shave anyone's head. Oh, and to ignore all rules of style and decorum and wear t-shirts, shorts and flip-flops to your favorite fine dining establishment.
(To be fair, Ilan left his shorts and flip-flops at home for this. It was autumn in Chicago, after all.)
The judges (minus Tom) are seated with the previous season winners and then Tom throws the chefs for a loop by having them make tasting portions of their dishes. Which no one expected. After three seasons. And how many challenges?
First is Lisa's "grilled and chilled" shrimp appetizer. Most are puzzled by the "chilled" aspect, though Harold gets it. Rick loves the lemongrass.
Next, Richard's traditional not-what-we-say-it-is dish. Sweetbreads are involved somehow. Everyone adores it.
Third comes Spike's Frozen Scallops Of Doom. No one really cares for it. Plus, Padma thinks the hearts of palm on it are canned.
They wash down the taste with some delicious Sponsor Water.
Time for Stephanie. "Sweetbreads in the window!" she calls. (Hmm. I think I saw Sweetbreads In The Window at Lollapalooza in '94.)
Her sweetbreads are a major hit.
Antonia's appetizer, a poached egg over some salad of sorts, is served. It seems that poaching eggs to order is tough and she pulled it off. But, otherwise, it's not impressing.
Then come the entrées. First up, Richard's tenderloin. We get a cute back and forth between Richard, who is slowly coordinating the dish's 32 moving parts, and Tom, who wants to serve the guests.
At the table, the response is dramatic. The meat is very rare; the dish is very complex; and Chef T-Shirt says that tenderloin is his "least favorite cut of meat." (Well, maybe if he put saffron on it, he'd like it better.)
Ilan further says that the dish's complexity doesn't make it a "relaxed dining experience; it's a project." (So I guess "relaxed dining experience" is what he was going for in the wardrobe. And here I was thinking that maybe the airline lost his luggage.)
Then, Lisa's peanut butter mashed potatoes prove to be a surprise hit, but no one likes her meat.
Spike's turn. Everyone marvels at his astonishing butchering skills, honed atop Mount Olympus when he interned under Hephaestus. Nothing else on the plate is scoring, though. Ilan wants to have his mind blown.
Later, Stephanie's steak entrée is universally adored and Ilan falls in love with Antonia's steak. (It must have lots of saffron.)
Off to the Stewed Room for brewskis! Spike wants wine. Lisa wants a Xanax©. (Bravo is certainly getting some interesting sponsors this season.)
Lisa, the flower of daintiness that she is, offers a toast to everyone, saying how they've all "been through a shitload," they have "rocked these challenges," adding that everyone is "fucking awesome."
Judges' Table: Everyone is called in at once to the last judges' table in Chicago.
Richard can't even say how he thinks he did, he's so nervous. He gets his mixed reviews.
Stephanie shows the first glimmer of nervousness and, charmingly, says that the judges are freaking her out.
When the judges start to go over Lisa's dish, for the first time in her natural life, she uncrosses her arms and adopts an open posture.
The judges discuss her offerings. Gail loved the lemongrass, but thought the shrimp shouldn't have been chilled. Rick "couldn't get (his) arms around" it.
Lisa goes back to her trademark "This looks like a fake ID, kid!" bouncer pose.
Antonia's entrée is called the "perfect steakhouse" meal.
And then there's Spike. Compromisin', enterprisin', anything but tranquilizin' Spike.
Despite getting raves for his steak, the issue of the scallops cannot be avoided. Tom says that when you see frozen scallops you should run screaming from the kitchen. Rick says that when a vendor brings your restaurant something like that you should kick them in the nuts and curse their offspring.
"With all due respect," Spike gamely retorts, "they were in your walk-in. And it shouldn't make it in the walk-in if it's not high quality."
(Everyone knows that in this day and age, "with all due respect" translates to "if you didn't have the brain cells of a rutabaga ...")
Richard's fauxhawk gets excited at this. Tom takes a sudden interest in his soul patch. Lisa makes a face like she's just been goosed by Xena, Warrior Princess.
Rick tells the "bro" that he'll take the hit for having the scallops in his freezer, but Spike must be punished for using the unspeakable food substance.
As the chefs make their way out for the judges to deliberate, Spike makes a half-assed attempt to clean up the poo-stains he has left on the judges by reaching over and shaking Rick's hand, saying, "It's an honor."
It'll take more that that to get that stink out.
Back in the Stewed Room, Spike expresses his regret over the snotty outburst and says he doesn't want to go home. Lisa, the portrait of grace, says that "none of us fucking wanna go home."
In discussing the chefs, the judges seem most torn as to who performed best, Stephanie, Antonia or Richard. In discussing Spike, they are aghast that he would even cast eyes upon a frozen scallop. In discussing Lisa, they think she's "apathetic" about what she does.
Clearly, they've never seen her attack a rotting antelope carcass on a sunny day on the savannah. 'Cause when she gets her teeth into that, there's nothing "apathetic" there.
The judges feel that both Lisa's and Spike's appetizers were equally unimpressive, leaving them to base their decision on the main course.
They call the chefs back in.
But first ... let's see how America voted on the question "who was chopped too soon?"
Dale by 53%?! And not my precious Andrew?! He only got 18%!? What is with you people?! Andrew, you know that only I can truly understand you.
We come back for the final judgment. The chefs join hands and chant, "Red rover, red rover, send Padma right over!"
When that doesn't work, Rick just issues the verdict.
The one that made the best two dishes overall was ... Stephanie. She's startled, and gleeful. She gets to go to Puerto Rico for the finale!
She says that that's "awesome."
And for winning, she gets ... a cookbook.
Wow.
And an entire GE Monogram© kitchen! Woo! It's sponsoriffic!
For having made the favorite appetizer, Richard gets to go to Puerto Rico! Yea, Crocs!
For having made the favorite entrée, Antonia gets to go to Puerto Rico! Yea, single moms!
Antonia says making it to the final four is "awesome."
Which leaves Spike and Lisa. Tom reminds us that Lisa's been in the bottom group at judges' table five times this season and Spike has been there seven times.
Tom says that Lisa hasn't been "ferocious" with the dishes she's prepared. And she looks like she's fixin' to make a meal of Tom's shiny noggin.
Tom again goes off on Spike not having the sense to place the frozen scallops in a biowaste disposal kit the moment he saw them.
Spike is knifed.
Lisa lives to bite another day. In Puerto Rico. Where she promises to "bring it." And by "it," she means her Magic Bandanna and ebullient personality.
She promises she will "shock the shit out of the judges."
Um, which will it be? Will she wear a ball gown or finally make a meal that's seasoned well? Tune in next week to find out?
Next time on Top Chef: The chefs are in Puerto Rico for the finale. And they've all had makeovers! And Antonia thinks it's "awesome."





